This family has been making wine for 6 centuries | 60 Minutes Archive

>> As anyone who sat through a Thanksgiving >> As anyone who sat through a Thanksgiving dinner can tell you, families can drive dinner can tell you, families can drive dinner can tell you, families can drive you nuts. And if you're bold or crazy you nuts. And if you're bold or crazy you nuts. And if you're bold or crazy enough to go into business together, enough to go into business together, enough to go into business together, beware. beware. beware. A recent study found only 15% of family A recent study found only 15% of family A recent study found only 15% of family businesses survive past the second businesses survive past the second businesses survive past the second generation. generation. generation. Meaning if the whims of the marketplace Meaning if the whims of the marketplace Meaning if the whims of the marketplace don't catch you, familial rivalry or don't catch you, familial rivalry or don't catch you, familial rivalry or plain old-fashioned greed will. plain old-fashioned greed will. plain old-fashioned greed will. Which makes the Antinori family of Italy Which makes the Antinori family of Italy Which makes the Antinori family of Italy all the more remarkable. They've been in all the more remarkable. They've been in all the more remarkable. They've been in the same line of work for six centuries the same line of work for six centuries the same line of work for six centuries now. now. now. The Antinoris make wine, and the The Antinoris make wine, and the The Antinoris make wine, and the family's story reads like something a family's story reads like something a family's story reads like something a wine critic might write about their wine critic might write about their wine critic might write about their product. Complex, stylish, product. Complex, stylish, product. Complex, stylish, sophisticated, with a bouquet both sophisticated, with a bouquet both sophisticated, with a bouquet both elegant and earthy. elegant and earthy. elegant and earthy. It's harvest time in the great vineyards It's harvest time in the great vineyards It's harvest time in the great vineyards of Italy, none greater than the 5,000 of Italy, none greater than the 5,000 of Italy, none greater than the 5,000 acres farmed by the Antinori family. acres farmed by the Antinori family. acres farmed by the Antinori family. Until recently, Italian business, Until recently, Italian business, Until recently, Italian business, especially the wine business, was pretty especially the wine business, was pretty especially the wine business, was pretty much for men only.

much for men only. much for men only. >> Girls normally in families like ours >> Girls normally in families like ours >> Girls normally in families like ours ended up to be married, possibly ended up to be married, possibly ended up to be married, possibly happily. happily. happily. And that's it. No And that's it. No And that's it. No no need to work. no need to work. no need to work. >> But Albiera Antinori and her two sisters >> But Albiera Antinori and her two sisters >> But Albiera Antinori and her two sisters are the first women in 26 generations to are the first women in 26 generations to are the first women in 26 generations to play a major role in the family play a major role in the family play a major role in the family enterprise. enterprise. enterprise. Allegra Antinori. Allegra Antinori. Allegra Antinori. >> I feel part of the land, you know? I >> I feel part of the land, you know? I >> I feel part of the land, you know? I think I think I think I uh uh uh I'm owned by that land. It's something I'm owned by that land. It's something I'm owned by that land. It's something very, very strong. very, very strong. very, very strong. >> From the fields to the cellars, you'll >> From the fields to the cellars, you'll >> From the fields to the cellars, you'll find the Antinori women at work. Hoping, find the Antinori women at work. Hoping, find the Antinori women at work. Hoping, as vintners have for centuries, that as vintners have for centuries, that as vintners have for centuries, that this year the balance of sun, soil, this year the balance of sun, soil, this year the balance of sun, soil, [snorts] and rain will produce a vintage [snorts] and rain will produce a vintage [snorts] and rain will produce a vintage for the ages. Alessia Antinori. for the ages. Alessia Antinori. for the ages. Alessia Antinori. >> People use these wonderful words to >> People use these wonderful words to >> People use these wonderful words to describe taste. There's personality. describe taste. There's personality. describe taste. There's personality. What else? What else? What else? >> The elegance. The wine has to be >> The elegance. The wine has to be >> The elegance. The wine has to be elegant. And so you say, "How do you elegant. And so you say, "How do you elegant. And so you say, "How do you describe elegance?" You can't. It's like describe elegance?" You can't. It's like describe elegance?" You can't. It's like an elegant woman. How you describe her? an elegant woman. How you describe her? an elegant woman. How you describe her? It's It's personal. Exactly. Exactly.

It's It's personal. Exactly. Exactly. It's It's personal. Exactly. Exactly. >> Their domain stretches from the >> Their domain stretches from the >> Their domain stretches from the legendary vineyards of Tuscany and legendary vineyards of Tuscany and legendary vineyards of Tuscany and Umbria to their property in California's Umbria to their property in California's Umbria to their property in California's Napa Valley. Antinori is perhaps the Napa Valley. Antinori is perhaps the Napa Valley. Antinori is perhaps the oldest family business on Earth. oldest family business on Earth. oldest family business on Earth. >> The first document which we have which >> The first document which we have which >> The first document which we have which proves that an ancestor of mine was proves that an ancestor of mine was proves that an ancestor of mine was involved in the wine production dates involved in the wine production dates involved in the wine production dates back to 1385. back to 1385. back to 1385. >> The patriarch is still the godfather. >> The patriarch is still the godfather. >> The patriarch is still the godfather. It's Piero Antinori. He's 70 and bears It's Piero Antinori. He's 70 and bears It's Piero Antinori. He's 70 and bears the noble title of Marchesa. He works the noble title of Marchesa. He works the noble title of Marchesa. He works behind an antique desk that dates to the behind an antique desk that dates to the behind an antique desk that dates to the Renaissance. Renaissance. Renaissance. >> When we have to take some decision >> When we have to take some decision >> When we have to take some decision regarding the family, we had them here. regarding the family, we had them here. regarding the family, we had them here. And my father used to do the same thing. And my father used to do the same thing. And my father used to do the same thing. >> And in his birthplace, Florence, the >> And in his birthplace, Florence, the >> And in his birthplace, Florence, the city that gave birth to the Renaissance, city that gave birth to the Renaissance, city that gave birth to the Renaissance, that flowering of art, science, and the that flowering of art, science, and the that flowering of art, science, and the good life, he leads a visitor to a small good life, he leads a visitor to a small good life, he leads a visitor to a small window to the past. It looks like a window to the past. It looks like a window to the past. It looks like a confessional. confessional. confessional. Hundreds of years ago, an Antinori Hundreds of years ago, an Antinori Hundreds of years ago, an Antinori cellar master sat waiting for customers cellar master sat waiting for customers cellar master sat waiting for customers to knock.

to knock. to knock. >> The cellar master would pass a bottle of >> The cellar master would pass a bottle of >> The cellar master would pass a bottle of of Chianti wine and of Chianti wine and of Chianti wine and uh it would receive the money back. uh it would receive the money back. uh it would receive the money back. This has been in operation until a This has been in operation until a This has been in operation until a couple of centuries ago. couple of centuries ago. couple of centuries ago. >> Recent history by your standards. >> Recent history by your standards. >> Recent history by your standards. For 623 For 623 For 623 years, various Antinori have kept the years, various Antinori have kept the years, various Antinori have kept the business going despite war, plague, business going despite war, plague, business going despite war, plague, political intrigue, and the shifting political intrigue, and the shifting political intrigue, and the shifting tastes of consumers. tastes of consumers. tastes of consumers. The family tree shows a bumper crop of The family tree shows a bumper crop of The family tree shows a bumper crop of Antinori who made their mark not just in Antinori who made their mark not just in Antinori who made their mark not just in wine but in every aspect of Italian wine but in every aspect of Italian wine but in every aspect of Italian life. life. life. >> In business, in politics, in church. >> In business, in politics, in church. >> In business, in politics, in church. >> So, the family always made sure back >> So, the family always made sure back >> So, the family always made sure back then that all bets were covered, then that all bets were covered, then that all bets were covered, correct? [laughter] correct? [laughter] correct? [laughter] >> I think it was a bit the concept, yes. >> I think it was a bit the concept, yes. >> I think it was a bit the concept, yes. >> There were poets and priests, rogues and >> There were poets and priests, rogues and >> There were poets and priests, rogues and rascals. In 1576, rascals. In 1576, rascals. In 1576, Francesco de Medici, the Grand Duke of Francesco de Medici, the Grand Duke of Francesco de Medici, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, had one Antinori strangled for Tuscany, had one Antinori strangled for Tuscany, had one Antinori strangled for his undue attentions to Bianca, the his undue attentions to Bianca, the his undue attentions to Bianca, the Duke's wife.

Duke's wife. Duke's wife. In 1700s, another Antinori cultivated In 1700s, another Antinori cultivated In 1700s, another Antinori cultivated Pope Clement XII as an important Pope Clement XII as an important Pope Clement XII as an important customer. The pontiff, who commissioned customer. The pontiff, who commissioned customer. The pontiff, who commissioned the building of Rome's Trevi Fountain, the building of Rome's Trevi Fountain, the building of Rome's Trevi Fountain, decided to throw a few coins the decided to throw a few coins the decided to throw a few coins the Antinoris' way. Antinoris' way. Antinoris' way. >> We have some correspondence saying that >> We have some correspondence saying that >> We have some correspondence saying that the Pope used to like very much the the Pope used to like very much the the Pope used to like very much the wines of our family and he wanted to wines of our family and he wanted to wines of our family and he wanted to order more. order more. order more. >> A pretty good recommendation, correct? >> A pretty good recommendation, correct? >> A pretty good recommendation, correct? Especially in the 18th century. Especially in the 18th century. Especially in the 18th century. >> Yes, no doubt. >> Yes, no doubt. >> Yes, no doubt. >> But the family history lining the >> But the family history lining the >> But the family history lining the shelves of the Marchesa's office says shelves of the Marchesa's office says shelves of the Marchesa's office says precious little about the wives and precious little about the wives and precious little about the wives and daughters in the Antinori family tree, a daughters in the Antinori family tree, a daughters in the Antinori family tree, a fact not lost on Albiera, Allegra, and fact not lost on Albiera, Allegra, and fact not lost on Albiera, Allegra, and Alessia. Alessia. Alessia. >> Are there any interesting women in those >> Are there any interesting women in those >> Are there any interesting women in those 26 generations? 26 generations? 26 generations? >> I'm sure there are some women, but women >> I'm sure there are some women, but women >> I'm sure there are some women, but women in history in the past time, even if in history in the past time, even if in history in the past time, even if unless they were unless they were unless they were special, they were not really considered special, they were not really considered special, they were not really considered to be mentioned. to be mentioned. to be mentioned. >> Sure, because when I went to agriculture >> Sure, because when I went to agriculture >> Sure, because when I went to agriculture university in northern Italy in Milan, university in northern Italy in Milan, university in northern Italy in Milan, we were we were we were two women. The rest were all men.

two women. The rest were all men. two women. The rest were all men. Very lucky. Very lucky. Very lucky. >> For six centuries, command of the >> For six centuries, command of the >> For six centuries, command of the Antinori empire was passed from father Antinori empire was passed from father Antinori empire was passed from father to son. But with no male heir, the to son. But with no male heir, the to son. But with no male heir, the Marchesa, some years ago, sold a major Marchesa, some years ago, sold a major Marchesa, some years ago, sold a major stake in the business to Whitbread, a stake in the business to Whitbread, a stake in the business to Whitbread, a British company whose fortune was based British company whose fortune was based British company whose fortune was based on beer making. on beer making. on beer making. >> It was the period when I didn't know >> It was the period when I didn't know >> It was the period when I didn't know exactly if my daughters would be exactly if my daughters would be exactly if my daughters would be interested or not uh interested or not uh interested or not uh to be involved in the business. to be involved in the business. to be involved in the business. And so for me that was a way to And so for me that was a way to And so for me that was a way to guarantee a continuity also to the guarantee a continuity also to the guarantee a continuity also to the company. company. company. >> But the partnership produced mainly >> But the partnership produced mainly >> But the partnership produced mainly grapes of wrath. It was a vintage clash grapes of wrath. It was a vintage clash grapes of wrath. It was a vintage clash between the foaming suds of quick between the foaming suds of quick between the foaming suds of quick profits and Piero insisting he'd sell no profits and Piero insisting he'd sell no profits and Piero insisting he'd sell no wine before its time. wine before its time. wine before its time. This marriage of inconvenience ended This marriage of inconvenience ended This marriage of inconvenience ended when Piero bought back the shares when Piero bought back the shares when Piero bought back the shares keeping Antinori all in the family. keeping Antinori all in the family. keeping Antinori all in the family. >> I think he saw us interested and said >> I think he saw us interested and said >> I think he saw us interested and said why not?

why not? why not? What's wrong with girls? And so took his What's wrong with girls? And so took his What's wrong with girls? And so took his chance expecting his daughters to chance expecting his daughters to chance expecting his daughters to to help to fall in love with the to help to fall in love with the to help to fall in love with the business. business. business. >> And that they did. Now all three travel >> And that they did. Now all three travel >> And that they did. Now all three travel the countryside and the world helping to the countryside and the world helping to the countryside and the world helping to grow, promote, and market Antinori grow, promote, and market Antinori grow, promote, and market Antinori wines. They sold 17 million bottles last wines. They sold 17 million bottles last wines. They sold 17 million bottles last year, 200 million dollars worth, making year, 200 million dollars worth, making year, 200 million dollars worth, making a healthy profit. And though the a healthy profit. And though the a healthy profit. And though the business now involves spreadsheets and business now involves spreadsheets and business now involves spreadsheets and science, the basics still come as they science, the basics still come as they science, the basics still come as they have for centuries from down on the have for centuries from down on the have for centuries from down on the farm. farm. farm. >> Even with all this tradition and history >> Even with all this tradition and history >> Even with all this tradition and history and everything else, the family still and everything else, the family still and everything else, the family still regards itself as as farmers. Yes? regards itself as as farmers. Yes? regards itself as as farmers. Yes? >> Yes, absolutely. This is our origin >> Yes, absolutely. This is our origin >> Yes, absolutely. This is our origin still now in modern times. We are still now in modern times. We are still now in modern times. We are basically basically farmers. basically basically farmers. basically basically farmers. >> We appreciate the nature and the >> We appreciate the nature and the >> We appreciate the nature and the countryside more than the glamorous countryside more than the glamorous countryside more than the glamorous uh city life. uh city life. uh city life. >> You're three country bumpkins. >> You're three country bumpkins. >> You're three country bumpkins. >> Yes, exactly. >> Yes, exactly. >> Yes, exactly. Yes. Yes. Yes. >> Well, hardly. >> Well, hardly. >> Well, hardly. >> Salute. Cheers.

>> Salute. Cheers. >> Salute. Cheers. >> Elegance is the rule at Palazzo >> Elegance is the rule at Palazzo >> Elegance is the rule at Palazzo Antinori, the family home in Florence. Antinori, the family home in Florence. Antinori, the family home in Florence. Since the family's wines must be sampled Since the family's wines must be sampled Since the family's wines must be sampled often to ensure quality control, every often to ensure quality control, every often to ensure quality control, every lunch at the Palazzo is a kind of lunch at the Palazzo is a kind of lunch at the Palazzo is a kind of business lunch. business lunch. business lunch. The Marchesa, his wife Francesca, their The Marchesa, his wife Francesca, their The Marchesa, his wife Francesca, their daughters and sons-in-law, and the daughters and sons-in-law, and the daughters and sons-in-law, and the grandchildren all may have a say. grandchildren all may have a say. grandchildren all may have a say. >> Any family arguments at this table? >> Any family arguments at this table? >> Any family arguments at this table? >> [laughter] >> I want secrets. I want secrets revealed >> I want secrets. I want secrets revealed here. here. here. >> Yes. >> Yes. >> Yes. Sometimes we start with an argument, but Sometimes we start with an argument, but Sometimes we start with an argument, but after three or four glasses of wine after three or four glasses of wine after three or four glasses of wine >> Everything disappears. >> Everything disappears. >> Everything disappears. >> [laughter] >> [laughter] >> [laughter] >> This Palazzo has been in the family >> This Palazzo has been in the family >> This Palazzo has been in the family since 1506, both the headquarter of the since 1506, both the headquarter of the since 1506, both the headquarter of the business and also the residence of the business and also the residence of the business and also the residence of the family. family. family. >> When an Antinori wishes to seek solace >> When an Antinori wishes to seek solace >> When an Antinori wishes to seek solace or a place for quiet contemplation, or or a place for quiet contemplation, or or a place for quiet contemplation, or even a place to confess his earthly even a place to confess his earthly even a place to confess his earthly sins, it's hardly difficult to leave the sins, it's hardly difficult to leave the sins, it's hardly difficult to leave the Palazzo Antinori and traffic Palazzo Antinori and traffic Palazzo Antinori and traffic notwithstanding, notwithstanding, notwithstanding, cross the Piazza Antinori cross the Piazza Antinori cross the Piazza Antinori and within minutes arrive at the and within minutes arrive at the and within minutes arrive at the Cappella Antinori, the Antinori family Cappella Antinori, the Antinori family Cappella Antinori, the Antinori family chapel, where they might visit the tomb chapel, where they might visit the tomb chapel, where they might visit the tomb of Alessandro Antinori, one of the of Alessandro Antinori, one of the of Alessandro Antinori, one of the founders of the dynasty, and perhaps a founders of the dynasty, and perhaps a founders of the dynasty, and perhaps a nod to any number of Antinoris buried nod to any number of Antinoris buried nod to any number of Antinoris buried beneath the chapel floor.

beneath the chapel floor. beneath the chapel floor. If wealth and history can buy one If wealth and history can buy one If wealth and history can buy one lasting pleasure, lasting pleasure, lasting pleasure, it is convenience. it is convenience. it is convenience. Marchese Antinori, for instance, Marchese Antinori, for instance, Marchese Antinori, for instance, commutes by air to his most famous commutes by air to his most famous commutes by air to his most famous vineyard, Tignanello, in the Tuscan vineyard, Tignanello, in the Tuscan vineyard, Tignanello, in the Tuscan countryside south of Florence. countryside south of Florence. countryside south of Florence. Here the family developed the red wines Here the family developed the red wines Here the family developed the red wines for which they're famous. At his villa for which they're famous. At his villa for which they're famous. At his villa here, this is the view the Marchesa here, this is the view the Marchesa here, this is the view the Marchesa wakes up to every morning. wakes up to every morning. wakes up to every morning. >> We have the vineyards and the landscape >> We have the vineyards and the landscape >> We have the vineyards and the landscape >> But as the experience with the British >> But as the experience with the British >> But as the experience with the British partners showed, it's no business for partners showed, it's no business for partners showed, it's no business for the impatient or for those who have a the impatient or for those who have a the impatient or for those who have a taste for the quick buck. 10 years can taste for the quick buck. 10 years can taste for the quick buck. 10 years can pass from the time a new vine is planted pass from the time a new vine is planted pass from the time a new vine is planted until its wine comes to market. until its wine comes to market. until its wine comes to market. >> You have to be patient and to wait until >> You have to be patient and to wait until >> You have to be patient and to wait until the wine is good enough, the vines are the wine is good enough, the vines are the wine is good enough, the vines are old enough to produce a good wine. old enough to produce a good wine. old enough to produce a good wine. >> Tignanello is but one of the Antinori >> Tignanello is but one of the Antinori >> Tignanello is but one of the Antinori postcard-perfect estates. Castella della postcard-perfect estates. Castella della postcard-perfect estates. Castella della Sala is another, halfway between Rome Sala is another, halfway between Rome Sala is another, halfway between Rome and Florence.

and Florence. and Florence. Here, Albiera went to work after high Here, Albiera went to work after high Here, Albiera went to work after high school, living in the family's grand school, living in the family's grand school, living in the family's grand 14th-century castle, but learning the 14th-century castle, but learning the 14th-century castle, but learning the wine trade from the bottom up as a field wine trade from the bottom up as a field wine trade from the bottom up as a field hand in the vineyards. hand in the vineyards. hand in the vineyards. >> You got your hands dirty. >> You got your hands dirty. >> You got your hands dirty. >> Yes, I got my hands dirty. It was the >> Yes, I got my hands dirty. It was the >> Yes, I got my hands dirty. It was the first place where I really started to first place where I really started to first place where I really started to understand what was going on in the understand what was going on in the understand what was going on in the whole the whole process. whole the whole process. whole the whole process. >> But it's not all dirt and business. >> But it's not all dirt and business. >> But it's not all dirt and business. There's that other estate, Guado al There's that other estate, Guado al There's that other estate, Guado al Tasso, on the Tuscan coast. >> I did my own stable, my own training >> I did my own stable, my own training track in the middle of the vineyards. track in the middle of the vineyards. track in the middle of the vineyards. I go riding there every morning. It's I go riding there every morning. It's I go riding there every morning. It's beautiful. I love it. beautiful. I love it. beautiful. I love it. >> It's a very good life you described. >> It's a very good life you described. >> It's a very good life you described. Are you spoiled? Are you spoiled? Are you spoiled? >> Yes, I am very spoiled, but I think we >> Yes, I am very spoiled, but I think we >> Yes, I am very spoiled, but I think we appreciate what we have. appreciate what we have. appreciate what we have. >> And they are constantly reminded that in >> And they are constantly reminded that in >> And they are constantly reminded that in this line of work, nature always has the this line of work, nature always has the this line of work, nature always has the last word. The Antinori found the 2002 last word. The Antinori found the 2002 last word. The Antinori found the 2002 crop wasn't up to par and didn't bother crop wasn't up to par and didn't bother crop wasn't up to par and didn't bother bottling most of it.

bottling most of it. bottling most of it. >> You cannot force things. You cannot >> You cannot force things. You cannot >> You cannot force things. You cannot force nature. If you have a bad vintage, force nature. If you have a bad vintage, force nature. If you have a bad vintage, tough luck. tough luck. tough luck. We can wake it up for a second before we We can wake it up for a second before we We can wake it up for a second before we put it back to sleep. put it back to sleep. put it back to sleep. >> Every few months, they check on the >> Every few months, they check on the >> Every few months, they check on the progress of their wine, fast asleep in progress of their wine, fast asleep in progress of their wine, fast asleep in the cellars. >> The verdict? >> The verdict? Let it sleep a while longer. Let it sleep a while longer. Let it sleep a while longer. >> You see, it's still very young, very >> You see, it's still very young, very >> You see, it's still very young, very rough, very has to stay in there for rough, very has to stay in there for rough, very has to stay in there for for a little while. for a little while. for a little while. >> Another family meal, another bottle of >> Another family meal, another bottle of >> Another family meal, another bottle of wine, or two. wine, or two. wine, or two. Every once in a while, someone offers to Every once in a while, someone offers to Every once in a while, someone offers to buy them out, but this farmer and his buy them out, but this farmer and his buy them out, but this farmer and his daughters politely decline, on the daughters politely decline, on the daughters politely decline, on the theory that if family ownership was good theory that if family ownership was good theory that if family ownership was good enough in 1385, enough in 1385, enough in 1385, it's good enough today. it's good enough today. it's good enough today. >> It is really our >> It is really our >> It is really our intention to remain uh family business, intention to remain uh family business, intention to remain uh family business, because we think that this is the best because we think that this is the best because we think that this is the best uh solution for us.

uh solution for us. uh solution for us. >> For at least another 500 years.